Cycling
to work is a great way to increase your winter mileage and to build for next
season. I sometimes wonder how those who cycle high mileage each week without
commuting on their bikes do it. Where do they get the time to go out either before
or after work? I have kids and this would not be a runner in my house.
Commuting to work for an hour or less and then home in the evening can give you
(depending on your speed and route) anything up to 60km per full commute. The
more days you commute by bike, the more mileage in the tank. Personally, my
problem is trying to stop myself doing too much, as once you are on the bike
you just want to keep on going.
In
any given week, I tend to have done 150km on the bike between Monday and
Friday. This is some winter training and coupled with a weekend spin with a
club, it is all you need to get very strong on the bike.
Cycling
to work I can get there 45 minutes faster than taking the train (with walks to
the station and to my workplace at either end) and an hour faster than if I
take the car. On days where I have to go by train or car, I find myself
frustrated watching cyclists flying by. Once you start cycling to work, it is hard
to motivate yourself to take any other mode of transport.
Those
who use Garmin or a similar GPS device can track each of your commutes in the
same way as you do your other training rides. If you upload your rides to
Strava, you can see how fast you cycle into and out of work relative to other cyclists
who have ridden the same roads. If you are a Strava segment hunter, you can
vary your routes according to where you want to challenge existing times on
given roads. My advice though is to try a number of routes and use the one
where there is least traffic and fewest traffic lights. This way the commute
will feel safer, be less stop/start (and probably warmer as you are not
standing at lights) and you will get used to the routes and start doing it
without thinking. You will start to know where all the potholes and dangerous
sections are and know how best to deal with them (bunny hop, swerve, etc.).
Personally I have two routes I can do in forty minutes and then two longer
routes of about 60 minutes. I can then add to or shorten these depending on the
time available on any given morning or evening.
Don’t
let the negative stories of biker vs. drivers put you off. I commute by bike
regularly and seldom have any issues. I simply avoid those areas where there is
always congestion causing head to head rivalry between bikes and vehicles.
There are usually many routes to take to get where you need to go and if you
enjoy biking, adding a few kms on to find the route of least resistance is
worth it. I find a 45 minute or so cycle into work sets you up nicely for the
day and knowing you’ll be cycling home gives you something to look forward to
in the evening. It all keeps your head clear.
I
commute on my winter racing bike, so the entire commute feels fast enough
though I try to stay below threshold at all times. To other cyclists I am sure
I seem to be going quick, but I am mostly holding a steady pace. This is my
advice to those cycling to work: keep it steady. This is not to say you will
get opportunities to sprint, hills to climb and hard drags to master. Commuting,
rather than indoor bike training, gives you a bit of everything. Even the
stopping and starting at traffic lights gets your body used to getting up to
speed.
Of
course it is now dark when cycling home and so you need a decent mountain bike
light on the front and a bright red light on the back. I also have a light on
the back of my helmet and a strip light on the back of my bag. You should carry
spare front and back lights in case something goes wrong with those you
normally use.
I
wear all hi-viz. I am sure I don’t look the coolest on the bike, but I do my
best to be seen. You don’t need to wear your best cycling gear. Actually if you
start commuting most days, you will go through so much gear, while saving a
fortune on fuel and/or public transport fares, that you can treat yourself to
more gear. I tend to buy gear in the sales and now have good quality cycling gear.
I find the better the gear, the warmer (and drier) you will be in colder
temperatures. Not because you wear lots of gear, but because you only need a
base layer and a cycle jacket on top. You will however need cycle hats, neck
scarves, gloves and over-shoes. I don’t wear a rain jacket unless it is very
wet. Most cycle jackets will keep out drizzle for over an hour. I keep a rain
jacket (again hi-viz) packed and easily accessible while on the bike.
You
should get yourself a back pack which is comfortable on the bike – you can get
ones specifically designed for the bike. I don’t use panniers as they make the
bike cumbersome and hard to handle when moving through traffic. I don’t notice
the bag unless it is very heavy. You can get a hi-viz cover for the bag or some
bags come with a built in cover. I tend to attach one or more additional light
to the bag.
I
park and lock up my bike in the underground car park of my office and then go
to the changing room to shower and dress. I can leave my gear hanging to dry
all day and it is normally pretty much dried when I am putting it back on. Some
people don’t have the luxury of showers in their work place and this makes
things more difficult. I know people who shower before they leave home and just
get dressed in the toilets when they get to work; whatever you need to do, do
it. Don’t use the transition from the bike into work clothing as a reason not
to commute by bike.
The
best advice I can give to those starting out on cycling to work is to spend ten
minutes each evening getting the bike ready, getting your bike clothes ready
and thinking about what you need to bring on the bike the next day. For me this
includes: (1) Charging my Garmin Edge to track the extra training the commuting
delivers; (2) Packing a bike pump, spare tubes and tyre levers; (3) Charging
and checking the batteries in my mountain bike light and/or other lights; (4) Checking
my bike helmet; (5) Checking my bike shoes – are they dry?; (5) Packing clothes
for work; (6) Packing any other work-related items – I bike with a laptop; (7) Cleaning and lubricating my bike chain (it
gets heavily used when commuting and needs care); (8) Checking the tyre pressure in your wheels - especially after a weekend; and (9) Leaving a pile of cycling
gear ready to be put on in the morning.
There
are downsides to commuting by bike. Sometimes the weather is shite. Sometimes
you get punctures (not very often with decent tyres fitted). Some motorists
will make you angry. You have more cycling gear to wash each week – especially in
winter when you are wearing more gear. You go through cycling gear more quickly
so spend some more money. But, on balance, the time and money saved by cycling
outweigh the negatives. Add to this the training and health benefits and
cycling to work wins every time.
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