Thursday, 29 October 2015

Review: Canyon Speedmax CF 9.0 SL time trial bike





road.cc have a two reviews (one early, one full) of Canyon’s Speedmax CF 9.0 SL time trial bike out. Remember, it is a UCI legal when the triathlon attachments are removed. This makes it more versatile than most of the triathlon super bikes on the market. 

We get a lot of head-turning bikes through the road.cc office, but few have turned as many heads as Canyon’s Speedmax CF 9.0 SL time trial bike. With angular frame profiles, barely any exposed cables and concealed brakes, it’s a strikingly futuristic-looking bike. Even compared to other time trial bikes, the Canyon really stands out.

See more at: 

http://road.cc/content/news/120664-just-canyon-speedmax-cf-90-sl-time-trial-bike#sthash.rFIR9XmH.dpuf

Okay, so at £5,799 it's not cheap as such, but as performance-to-pound ratios go, the Canyon Speedmax is without rival. The CF 9.0 SL is the Speedmax range topper (the £6,599 LTD having sold out), and drips with the shiniest Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 and Zipp 404/808 Firecrest carbon clincher wheels.

Flash kit is worthless if the bike doesn't perform, but happily the Speedmax offers bundles of performance. There's no doubting its speed at all. Good enough for Movistar racer Alex Dowsett to knock out 10 miles in a shade over 17 minutes.

See more at:

http://road.cc/content/review/163032-canyon-speedmax-cf-90-sl#sthash.mhFpy4uI.dpuf

Okay, so at £5,799 it's not cheap as such, but as performance-to-pound ratios go, the Canyon Speedmax is without rival. The CF 9.0 SL is the Speedmax range topper (the £6,599 LTD having sold out), and drips with the shiniest Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 and Zipp 404/808 Firecrest carbon clincher wheels.
Flash kit is worthless if the bike doesn't perform, but happily the Speedmax offers bundles of performance. There's no doubting its speed at all. Good enough for Movistar racer Alex Dowsett to knock out 10 miles in a shade over 17 minutes.
- See more at: http://road.cc/content/review/163032-canyon-speedmax-cf-90-sl#sthash.mhFpy4uI.dpuf

We get a lot of head-turning bikes through the road.cc office, but few have turned as many heads as Canyon’s Speedmax CF 9.0 SL time trial bike. With angular frame profiles, barely any exposed cables and concealed brakes, it’s a strikingly futuristic-looking bike. Even compared to other time trial bikes, the Canyon really stands out. - See more at: http://road.cc/content/news/120664-just-canyon-speedmax-cf-90-sl-time-trial-bike#sthash.rFIR9XmH.dpuf

Join your local triathlon or cycling club for winter spins



Winter is nearly on us. Triathlon clubs and cycling clubs are now running weekend winter bike training sessions (called a spin or long spin) which suit all levels. You have probably seen these groups out on the road. They are a great way to catch up with club mates while easing down from the racing season. Riding in a group, with the inevitable chat and little bit of messing, will make the miles and hours pass far quicker. Most spins include a coffee stop. These spins also cover a lot of road and will take you on roads and routes you may never have thought of cycling yourself. Weekly route changes keep it all interesting.

But turning up at your first triathlon club or a cycling club weekend bike training session can be a daunting experience. Turning up and introducing yourself to people you may not have met before can test even the most confident person, especially if the club runs multiple groups of riders of differing abilities – which group do you join? Will you be able to keep up? What happens if you get dropped from the group? What is the etiquette required to cycle in a group? Do I need to be a skilled biker?

Even if you think you can overcome your anxiety at meeting all these people on bikes for the first time, there is then the question of whether you are prepared for the work and for the conditions. Weekend training spins can last between two and four hours and usually cover 50km to 100km – often across hilly terrain. Add the increasingly cold – and unpredictable (wet, icy, windy, etc.) - weather to this and it can seem like real hardship.

What can you do to prepare for your first spin with a club?

1.     Bring the craic:

- Long winter spins benefit most from those who are coming along for a bit of craic. Sure you have to work a bit, but it is also great fun. Bring along your happy face and get stuck in. Don’t turn up miserable and expect the clouds to lift. You have gotten out of bed onto the bike, so make the most of it. Group cycling is great for the motivation and you always feel better for it.

2. Turn up with the right gear:

- You need a racing bike (commuting bikes, mountain bikes, BMXs and Penny Farthings, all have their place – just not on a club spin).
- The bike should have quick release skewers through the wheels – these open easily allowing the wheels to be removed (if the wheels are bolted on, you will not be able to change a puncture in a hurry). The bike should ideally have tyres suitable for winter riding. This blog has previously recommended Continental Four Seasons tyre, but anything with grip is ok. Just avoid flat racing tyres which puncture easily and do not provide any grip.
The bike should have two bottle cages attached to the frame.
- You should carry a bike pump (there are many small bike pumps available from any bike shop) and at least two spare inner tubes which are compatible with your wheels. If you are not sure of what inner tubes to buy, ask at your local bike shop.
- You will need a set of tyre levers to lever one side of the tyre off the wheel allowing the inner tune to be replaced.
- You should carry a set of Allen keys / bike tools which can tighten any part of your bike loosed during a spin.
- Most people store their tubes, levers and tools in a saddle bag attached to the underside of their saddle (again, these can be purchased from your local bike shop).
- Finally, while not every rider installs mud guards each winter and you will see lots of riders without them, you should, if possible, make an effort to install them. It will make you popular with the more experienced riders.

3. Dress for the right temperature:

Winter spins require winter cycling gear; as Billy Connolly says: “There's no such thing as bad weather, just the wrong clothing”. It doesn’t need to be expensive, but it is needed. Starting from the feet up, you will need:

- Feet: Thick thermal socks or two pairs of warm socks (but make sure your feet and toes can still move around in your shoes or the lack of movement will cause them to freeze) and cycling overshoes – these come in a variety of material – in the real cold, you will need them in thick neoprene.  Your feet will still be cold but the cold will be manageable.
- Ankles to waist – You need cycling tights. You can buy many different types. For the truly cold days, you will need padded thermal bib tights or thermal tights with padded bib shorts over them (you only need one pad, known as a ‘chamois’).
- Hands – you need winter gloves. These should ideally be wind and water proof. Your fingers and hands should be kept warm as you need them to pull the brakes and change the gears. You might therefore pack a spare pair in a watertight bag in case the ones you are wearing get soaked – and icy - during a spin. Try different makes of gloves all you want, but I have always found those sold by Aldi to be the best. You don’t need to send a fortune to have warm hands.
- Waist to neck – you should wear a thermal base layer (and on the very cold days you may also need a second base layer) and a winter cycling jacket or winter cycling jersey with a gilet (a sleeveless jacket) over it. Keep an eye on the temperature; don’t wear too much as you may over-heat during parts of the spin causing sweating, this sweat can then cool on downhills causing you to become cold. You should also be carrying a light rain jacket (in case of rain) and this can be put on as another layer if you get cold.
- Neck and head – a cycling scarf can be work around the neck. This can be drawn up to just below cycling goggles in extremely cold conditions. A cycling hat or headscarf can be worn under the helmet. For truly Baltic conditions, you can buy cycling balaclavas.

Look out for sales and try to pick up quality winter gear. It is a great investment and lasts a long time.

4. Bring food and drink:

- You should turn up with two full 750ml bottles (bidons) in your bottle cages. Some people use pure water, while others mix their drinks – some add a carbohydrate mix, an electrolyte tablet, Coke or any combination they prefer.
- You will need to bring along food you can eat while cycling. Commonly seem on spins are bananas, cereal bars, biscuits, chocolate bars, jellies and a wide range of other snacks. The critical requirement is carbohydrate. Ensure whatever you bring is high in carbs and you will be fine.
- There are a wide range of sport specific drinks, gels and foods on the market. These are expensive. It should not be necessary to use these products for every spin, though you may want to carry a gel or two (perhaps containing caffeine) in case you need a fast intake of energy.
- Winter spins provide a great opportunity to try out different feeding strategies and to work out what will work best for you in races, so mix it up!

5. Join the right group:

- If this is your first ever club spin, you might be advised to join the slowest group spin simply to learn about riding in a group. This way you will develop the basic skills before you need them in faster spins.
- If you are confident on a bike and are happy to go straight into a group of your own standard, you need to consider what average speed you think you can do on a bike over a couple of hours. This will tell you what standard group you should join.
- Most clubs post details of their weekend spins on their websites or circulate group emails. Ensure you have read these as they will include details of the average speeds of weekend spins. Easy / introductory spins will usually average around 22kph, medium / recovery spins will average around 24/25kph, medium / hard spins will average around 27/28kph and hard spins will average around 30kph.
- If the club has not posted details of its groups or average group speeds, just ask someone when you get to the meeting point. If he/she can’t help you, he/she will point you to someone who can. Many club spins will have group leaders on them and this person will have all the details.
- Remember, these are average speeds over any terrain. This may include mountains, so you need to be confident you can manage the average even where part of the spin will include climbing at low speeds.

6. Ride safe:

Club leaders of group spins want to bring you back alive, so you should ensure:

- Cars can see you: For winter spins, you will need to attach front and rear bike lights. Bike lights are available to buy at various prices, but you should read reviews and try to find bomb proof ones. Regardless of how much some cyclists hate hi-viz gear, it works. Wear what you feel safe in. If this means hi-viz everything (helmet, jacket, gloves, overshoes, etc.), so be it. When rising on the road always assume cars cannot see you. If you pretend you are invisible, then you will never make any terrible assumptions about what a car, truck or motorbike is going to do next.

- Try not to slip: Make sure your brakes are working well. Remember, if it is wet, it will take longer to stop. Assume everything is slippery and then take even more precaution when riding over things like road markings and manholes / drain covers, but also wet fallen leaves (they can be lethal). Critically, if there is ice on the road, don’t take any chances – you are probably advised to use your indoor turbo trainer. Some tyres are specifically designed for winter riding; you would be advised to invest in a pair to maximise your chances of staying on the bike this winter.

- Look forward and not at your stem (you are not Chris Froome): When you are at the front of a group, try to anticipate everything which happens on the road before it happens. For example, cars doors can suddenly open, cars can suddenly swerve into you, cars can pass too close, cars can take left turns immediately in front of you – it all happens daily. Assume every motorist will behave in these ways and you will avoid crashing and pulling the group down with you. When cycling within the group, don’t get too close to the rider in front of you and react to all directions given by those on the front and back of the group such as the group is approaching a pedestrian and it needs to cycle around him.

7. Prepare to be dropped:

- Whatever group you join, it may be too fast for you, you might have a bad day or you might have a problem with your bike and you cannot continue. The group will slow down or stop for you to see what is wrong, but if you can’t continue with the group you will need to take a shorter route home or call for someone to collect you.
- If this happens, you need to know the route the club is taking such that you can identify the quickest route home or describe where you are to the person who is coming to pick you up.
- In case it is not entirely obvious, you should carry a mobile phone. This can be carried in a sealable bag to keep it dry.
- You should also carry ten or twenty euro, and perhaps a credit card, in case you need to stop at a bike shop for a an emergency repair or you need to wait in a café to be collected.
- In the event you are injured during a spin, the group will wait with you until either you are collected by a family member or are taken by ambulance to hospital. You will not be left lying on the side of a road …

8. Develop your speed-chatting:

- Group bike riding is a bit like speed dating. Always riding alongside another rider, you will have constant short conversations with everyone in the group until the group rotates the person riding on the front and everyone moves up a place. The group will rotate in an anti-clockwise direction throughout the spin – everyone shares the work. You will chat multiple times to the same person, so sometimes you need to hold multiple conversations in your head!
- In cycling there are all kinds of people. Some will welcome a new rider; others will think ‘newbie’ and be critical of everything you do (do you not have clip in pedals and bike shoes? why don’t you have matching bottles? Why haven’t you shaved your legs? That’s not how you wear your sunglasses, etc.). Just ignore the latter wankers. Every sport has its snobs and cycling has more than its fair share. Just do you share of the work in the group and turn up on a regular basis and before long you will be recognised as belonging to the group.

9. No racing:

- Winter spins are aimed at high volume at steady speeds. This helps build stamina and strength and trains you to ride for longer. Racing away from a group during the spin will not make you popular. You might have been eyeing a Strava segment for weeks and find the opportunity to ‘have a go’ impossible to resist. After you have completed your little bit of racing, expect the group to consider you a wanker. The aim is to get everyone in the group through the spin without any drama; not to set you up for a sprint. Group spins may have a designated sprint, ‘up and overs’ or hill climb during the spin, save your energy for these.
- You may feel strong during a spin and want to up the pace to show this. You might race up a hill or start going hard when it is your turn on the front, but beware; there may be very strong riders on the spin who are enjoying a number of relaxed winter spins after a long season of racing. They may decide to drop you.

10. Puncture protocol:

- If you get a puncture, even though you have dutifully installed winter tyres on your bike (to minimise group stoppages in the freezing cold), the group will stop and wait while you fix the puncture. If you make an effort but have problems, people will help. Just don’t expect someone to hop off their bike and do all the work for you.
- Ideally, you should have practiced putting in and taking out an inner-tube at home and tried out your hand pump or have successfully changed a previous puncture on the same bike. Anything you can do before a spin to minimise possible waiting around in the cold times, should be done.
- If you have recently had a number of punctures on what was once a puncture proof tyre, this is usually a sign you need a new tyre. Try to avoid coming along to a spin with a worn tyre.

By the end of winter you will be stronger for it.

Friday, 23 October 2015

Cramp: what a bastard

Cramp: what a bastard. You are swimming along and you get cramp in your toes. You finish an open water swim and are running into T1 – wham – cramp in your calf. You put in your best bike leg ever then start the run leg and - bang – your entire leg cramps. Some cramp in triathlon is unavoidable. This is because you have to change muscle groups during races, you are increasingly dehydrated during an event and because your muscles are simply under such stress. Even after races, when getting changed, on the way home in the car, walking up the stairs at home, you name it, cramp can strike.  At least after a race it doesn’t matter as much, but it is still a total bastard. Cramp can also make your muscles sore for days after an event which impacts on your training.

Cramping then is something we all know a little about. It usually begins with spasmodic muscle twitches that morph into a painful sustained muscle contraction during the race. Cramp can involve one muscle or several. Dehydration and electrolyte depletion are considered by most triathletes to lead to cramp and this article focuses on addressing these causes.

It is however important to be aware that it can also be caused by localised impairment in the muscle tissue, with excessive activation of certain groups of muscle fibers within the affected muscle leading to their premature fatigue, failure to relax, and the onset of cramping. If you have previously injured an area of muscle this may account for the local impairment. This explains why many triathletes always get cramp in the same muscle(s).  I know I do, but I also know that most of the craps I have experienced have been self-inflicted.

My four worst memories of cramp are:

1. Driving from an all night party to run a half marathon. I got to 15km, threw up on the pavement while spectators looked on with disgust, started running again and then my leg cramped so badly I had to sit on the pavement until, after drinking around a litre of water, I could walk again. My ‘friends’ took a photo of me looking horrible at the end of the race.

2. During my first ever marathon I swallowed a gel every 20 minutes (with hindsight I feel like a total donkey for doing this). Instead of hydrating me, these gels just sat in my stomach and – I think – prevented any water from being absorbed. When I crossed the finish line I had to sit down on the ground before throwing up all this green goo all over the finish area.

2. I got off the bike in T2 at a middle distance triathlon and immediately started running. I could feel cramp coming on, but I was trying to maintain my place in the race. Then suddenly I couldn’t even walk. I was looking around me thinking that’s it. With my eyes swimming in my head, I reached down and pulled back my toe and counted to sixty. I then sat down and touched my toes. Finally, I could walk. I walked all the way to the next drinks stop. I lost places in the race because I didn’t listen to my body.

3. I once did a hard 200km cycle sportive the day before a sprint triathlon. I arrived at the race thinking: “sure I was only cycling yesterday”. I got through the swim, the bike and then cramped in both legs in transition while pulling on my runners. It was race over. I was so dehydrated from the day before that my body could not move any more.

What can you do to try to reduce the incidence of cramp? My advice is simple.

1. Before even thinking about racing, make sure you are recovered from any muscle injury or injuries you may have sustained. Any imbalances in strength, flexibility and activation of surrounding muscles can lead to cramp. If you are regularly cramping in training and races, you need to seek help from a physiotherapist and/or sports injury specialist.

2. Don’t enter a triathlon unless you are sure you have done the training to complete the event. Many people, often experienced triathletes who are having an easy year, will turn up to a shorter triathlon event and assume it will be no bother. Many of these will then experience cramping of muscles which have been under-trained. The old adage: “train hard, race easy” is true also for avoiding cramp. If you haven’t trained your body to withstand a certain number of miles or pace in training, you’re more likely to encounter cramping in a race, especially if you race faster than anything you have done in recent training.

3. To prepare properly for a triathlon, you need to do brick sessions to get your body used to transitioning between muscle groups during a single event. When doing these sessions, try to do them at race pace, so your body gets used to the sudden transitions. When you get to the race, stick to what you have practiced. Stick to the plan. IF you go faster, you risk cramping.

4. Ensure you rest before a race because cramps often results from fatigue. Triathletes have a tendency to over-race and to over-train. Your body cannot train or race every day. Depending on the length of the race, your body will need anything from a 3 week taper for an Ironman, to a two week taper for a middle distance event, a week for an Olympic and at least a few days for a sprint. To go into a race tired is to invite cramp.

5. Don’t go into a race sick or hungover. You see people turning up to races who are green.  Just because you have a race entry or your friends are going doesn’t mean you have to race. Even if you intend to: “take it easy”, think about what your body will think about this decision. Your temperature will be above normal and the race will increase this. You will be extremely dehydrated and the race will leave you in tatters. Then you wonder why you have cramped.

6.  In the days before a race stay well hydrated as your body will be recovering from training or other races and maintaining sufficient water in your body is critical for this. Keep a bottle beside you at all times.

7. In the hour or hours before a race, keep drinking water until your pee is clear. Twenty minutes before the swim start, drink around 250ml of water (carry a bottle to the race start). If you need to pee in your wetsuit, I forgive you. Better out than in; start all races well hydrated.

8. In shorter events you can transition from the swim to the bike without drinking, but for longer events (anything over Olympic distance), you may want to consider drinking around 500ml of water in transition: the longer the swim, the greater the need to drink straight after. On very hot days this is critical.

9. Once on the bike you need to drink according to your pre-race plan. For example, in an Olympic triathlon, I know I need to drink 1 litre of fluid between the swim and starting the run. This means drinking a 750ml bottle on the bike and also drinking a few mouthfuls of water in transition before and after the bike leg. I could carry two bottles on the bike, but I find this unnecessary. The general rule for me is around 500ml of water per hour of racing. Everyone is different and needs to perfect their drinks strategy across a number of races. If you get it right, you won’t cramp.

10. You will need to add electrolyte hydration tablets to your drinks during a race. There are many brands offering many flavours (Nuun, High5, Viper and Powerbar are all good examples). These replace the salts you lose as the race progress and help you to avoid cramp. You should practice with these to decide what works best for you. Longer spins provide a good opportunity to do this.

11. If you get a slight pre-cramp twinge: DO NOT IGNORE IT. Stop at the next drinks station and take at least 500ml of fluid on board and keep taking fluids on throughout the remainder of the race. If you are starting to cramp, your whole body is dehydrated and you need to remain conscious of this at all times. You may also need to drop your intensity by around 5-10% such that your muscles are not pushed beyond what they can achieve in a dehydrated state (better to finish than to have to stop).

12. Hold your form during a race. Even if you’ve trained properly, changes in your swimming, biking or running form as you fatigue can also cause problems as more demand is placed on the muscle system and this may lead to cramping. If you watch the run leg of a triathlon, you will runners who aren’t picking up their feet and driving their knees as they normally would, they are instead relying more heavily on other muscles that may not be prepared to handle the load.